Bodies
I use 35mm Olympus OM equipment to make my images, and have done so for almost 20 years.
I started with the classic Olympus OM-1n and am now fortunate enough to have a range of OM bodies, including OM-1n, OM-2n and the wonderful OM-4Ti which features a built-in multi-spot metering system. I generally use an OM-4Ti as my main body, with another OM-4Ti or OM-2n as a second body.
All of my OM-4Ti bodies are fitted with the brighter Olympus 2-4 focus screen. This screen is much brighter than the original screen and has no distracting central microprism or split image - just a centre circle to mark the spot-meter area.
Sometimes, when the mood takes me, I will opt for an OM-1n and enjoy getting "back to basics". After all this time I still love the feel of using the OM-1n.
Lenses
I use a selection of Olympus Zuiko lenses ranging from the Zuiko 18mm F3.5 super wide-angle right up to a Zuiko 350mm F2.8 telephoto lens. My favorite focal length for landscapes seems to be the 24mm as I reach for it more often than any other.
I tend to use prime (ie fixed focal length) lenses for landscape, while I like the convenience of Zuiko zoom lenses for travel photography and more casual shooting. The 35-70mm F3.6 and the 65-200mm F4 make a good combination, both take 55mm filters and cover a good range of focal lengths.
A good lightweight kit includes the Zuiko 28mm F2, 35-70mm F3.5/4.5 and 75-150mm F4, all of which take 49mm filters.
The Zuiko 55mm F1.2 is great for low natural light photography.
Motor Drives
I like to use the Olympus Winder 2 or Motor Drive 2 when working with telephoto lenses, and I also like to use a Winder 2 in single-shot mode for macro work as this minimises the risk of moving the camera when advancing film. I don't like to use any kind of automatic advance on my cameras when making landscape photographs as I feel that landscape photography should be a slow and contemplative activity.
Tripods
I ALWAYS try to use a tripod when I shoot landscapes - the heavier the better. Seriously - I believe a good solid tripod and a good head are two of the best investments you can make to improve your landscape photography.
I prefer to use a Ball Head for all my photography, but many people like the 3-way pan-tilt heads. I use both Manfrotto and Benbo tripods, depending on what I am planning to photograph, and how far I have to carry my gear.
I find the Manfrotto 055C tripod to be a good compromise of weight and stability for photographing in the field, although I also sometimes use the light-weight Manfrotto 190 tripod. The Benbo trpod is heavier than either of the Manfrotto tripods and is invaluable for getting into tight spots to achieve that perfect angle. The Benbo is also unmatched for "wet-work" - when you need to be able to stand the trpod legs in water (for example a stream or a rock-pool) as the legs are watertight to the first joint.
As far as tripod heads, I use the solid Manfrotto ProBall 468RC head with the 200PL quick-release fitting on the 055C legs and the Benbo, while I prefer the smaller Manfrotto 308RC ball head (also with the 200PL quick-release fitting) on the lighter 190 legs.
Macro Equipment
The Olympus OM System really shines when it comes to macro photography. I use the versatile Olympus 65-116 Telescopic Auto Tube to provide continuously variable lens extension in the field, in conjunction with a range of Zuiko macro lenses including the 38mm F2.8, 50mm F2, 80mm F4, 90mm F2 and 135mm F4.5. The higher magnification of the 38mm F2,8 makes it more suitable for use indoors under more controlled conditions.
I like to use natural lighting wherever possible for macro photography, but when flash is required (to stop movement or to achieve greater depth of field), the OM System offers a range of solutions including the T8 and T10 ringflash units as well as the T28 Macro Twin Flash unit.
Filters
I don't use a lot of filters. Those I do use include the Circular Polariser, the 81B warming filter and 0.3 and 0.6 Grad Neutral Density filters. I use Skylight 1A filters on most of my lenses for protection. I also religiously use lens hoods on all lenses to minimise the risk of flare, and to improve contrast.
Film
I don't tend to experiment enough with film, preferring to stick with Kodachrome slide film and Fuji Velvia. I am very fussy about the sharpness of my images and therefore like to stick with slow, fine-grain film stock. There are some great new films on the market now, and I would like to try some of them in future.
Bags
Why is it that one can never seem to find the perfect bag?
I have collected a closet full of bags over the years, each suited to slightly different uses. I tend to stick with LowePro bags as they are well made, well designed and are reasonably priced. I use the LowePro Orion AW, Nova 5, Magnum AW, PhotoTrekker or SuperTrekker AW depending on what I need to carry at the time and where I need to travel. I also have a Rowi London bag that I find to be very versatile.